Two Weeks in Croatia – Cavtat, Dubrovnik & Beyond

This summer we spent two weeks in Cavtat, Croatia, a charming little town just south of Dubrovnik. We chose it because it promised quiet evenings by the sea, beautiful walking paths, and easy access to Dubrovnik and the islands. What we didn’t realise was just how much adventure, history, and unforgettable moments we’d pack into those 14 days.

Walking the Cavtat Peninsula

One of the first things we did was explore the Rat Peninsula that curls around Cavtat. The path is shaded by tall pine trees, the air filled with the smell of resin and salt. At every turn, the Adriatic appeared between the trees – calm bays on one side, open sea on the other.

The View from our apartment

Locals swam in little coves, some sunbathing on rocks, others diving straight into the crystal-clear water. We stopped often just to take in the colours – the turquoise sea, the dark green pines, and the white stone path beneath our feet. It was peaceful, unhurried, and the perfect introduction to Cavtat life.  Highlights for me were the superyachts anchored in the bay, a sort of ‘Busman’s Holiday’, but you can’t not be impressed by how the 1% live and holiday…

About halfway around, we came across the Little Star Beach Bar – perched right on the rocks above the water, with a view that could make you sit for hours. What makes it even more unique is that it’s built on top of a WWII bunker, which gives the place a rugged, historic edge beneath its laid-back holiday vibe. It wasn’t the cheapest stop (definitely a bit pricey for drinks), but the atmosphere made up for it – chilled music, sunbeds, and that unbeatable feeling of sipping something cold with the Adriatic at your feet. The entrance is quirky to say the least as you have to duck under the trunk of a tree growing across the path. James and myself stayed in the shade and Dolores lapped up the sun, on what was a very warm day..

The Elafiti Islands – A Rough Day at Sea

We booked a boat trip to the Elafiti Islands – Lopud, Koločep, and Šipan – usually described as sleepy and idyllic. The reality for us? Let’s just say the Adriatic had other plans.

The sea was choppy from the start, and our boat rolled its way out of Cavtat with passengers gripping railings and exchanging nervous glances. By the time we reached our first stop at Dubrovnik old harbour to pick up more guests, others were getting off, we set sail again and out into the open sea, as it was fresh, the Skipper kept having to zigzag his way to keep the vessel off the beam as she would have ‘rolled the milk out of your tea’ several of our fellow passengers, gripped the handrail as they endured the ‘Vomit Comet’ I felt sorry for them as having endured seasickness in the past, its no joke…finally we arrived at the first island, most of us were relieved just to set foot on dry land!

James on Koločep

Still, the islands were worth the effort: quiet harbours with stone houses, sandy beaches (rare for Croatia) on Lopud, and sleepy villages where time seemed to stand still. Even with the rough crossing, the trip gave us a glimpse of another side of Croatian life – unhurried, simple, and timeless. And of course, it became one of those “remember when…” holiday stories. Our favourite island was Sipan, we got off the ferry and had 30 minutes to explore, we ended up having a drink in a sheltered bay surrounded by locals houses , it was peaceful and a place you could see yourself retiring to…

Dubrovnik on the Hottest Day of the Year

No trip to Cavtat is complete without venturing into Dubrovnik, and we picked what felt like the hottest day of the summer to do it. The bus wound its way along the coast, but in classic holiday fashion, we managed to get off at the wrong stop – my fault entirely. Our mistake turned into a bonus, though, as we found ourselves right outside the Dubrovnik Brewing Company hmmm….

A couple of cold craft beers later, we were much more prepared to face the heat of the Old Town.

Inside the city walls, it was like stepping into history. The polished stone streets gleamed in the sunlight, the narrow alleys offered little pockets of shade, and every corner seemed to reveal a church, fountain, or hidden courtyard. We stopped for Icecream and the young fella that served us had all the accents down to a tee, we were treated to a bit of Belfast, a bit of Derry and a bit of Ballymena hi…the icecream or gelato was super and for a tourist trap reasonably priced...

Now we were supposed to be climbing the city walls  but at 120 euro to walk around the perimeter of Dubrovnik was not my idea of fun, so we went for lunch in the Hard Rock Cafe…and visited a ‘Banksy’ exhibition…30 minutes of my life I won't get back…waste of money….. The sun beat down, the stone radiated heat, and within minutes we were sweating buckets– but the views made every step worth it.

After a couple of hours, I had enough I was soaking with sweat and just wanted back to Cavtat …we ended up taking the ferry home from Dubrovnik. They journey is about 40 minutes but the scenery is amazing.

Eco Tuk Tuks & the Conflict Museum

Another day, we took the Eco Tuk Tuks up the winding road above Dubrovnik to the Panorama viewpoint. The ride itself was fun – breezy, open, and much less sweaty than hiking up!

At the top, the view was staggering: the Old Town sitting on its rocky peninsula, the Elafiti Islands scattered on the horizon, and the Adriatic glowing in endless shades of blue.

Nearby sits the Homeland War Museum, housed in the Imperial Fortress. Inside, the exhibits tell the story of the 1990s conflict that scarred Dubrovnik. Photographs, maps, and even damaged weapons and uniforms give a stark reminder of how recently the city endured siege and shelling.

Adventure & Bucket List Moments

James took on the Du the Line Zipline, flying across a valley high above the sea. Watching him launch himself into the air with nothing but a harness and a wire was nerve-wracking – but he came back grinning, saying it was one of the best things he has ever done

For me, a lifelong dream was dinner at the Panorama Restaurant, perched high above Dubrovnik. We booked it for lunch and the front row, 3 months ahead – it is busy every day, and it could not have been more perfect. The food was excellent, but the real magic was the setting: the city below, the islands silhouetted against the horizon, and the Adriatic shimmering in the heat

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Dolores’ Birthday in Mlini

We celebrated Dolores’ birthday with a day at the Beach Club in Mlini, a chic little spot just up the coast. White loungers lined the deck, the sea lapped gently below, and cocktails appeared were so good…it was a day of chilltime with the Fam.

The highlight was springing the surprise – a chilled bottle of Moët, hidden until just the right moment. The look on DC’s face, the pop of the cork, and the laughter that followed made it one of the most memorable days of the whole trip.

Montenegro & the Bay of Kotor

One of our biggest adventures was sailing south to Montenegro. Crossing the border before boarding a ferry for an invasion by sea felt exciting in itself, but the real spectacle came when we entered the Bay of Kotor.

Mountains rose steeply from the water, villages clung to the shoreline, and the whole bay felt like a fjord transplanted into the Adriatic. We wandered the streets of Kotor, exploring its fortified walls and hidden squares, before enjoying a leisurely lunch in one of the many squares…it was hot and no sooner were we there than we were back on the coach on the way back to Cavtat

The Sea Gate - Kotor old Town

Food Highlights – Konoba Ivankovi

Croatia spoiled us with seafood, grilled meats, and plenty of fresh salads, but the standout meal of the trip was at Konoba Ivankovi - Blog Post coming soon

Set slightly off the beaten track, it had the warmth of a family-run place – friendly service, simple tables, and food that spoke for itself. Fresh fish, perfectly grilled meats, homemade olive oil, and local wine that flowed generously. We had good food where ever we went and none better than the 20 Euro Pizza at Kabelero...

Pizza at Kabelero

Reflections

Looking back, our holiday in Croatia gave us a little bit of everything – peaceful walks, dramatic history, adrenaline-fuelled adventure, unforgettable meals, and special celebrations. Cavtat was the perfect base: small enough to feel relaxed, but close enough to Dubrovnik and Montenegro for big days out.

We came home relaxed, with  a few funny stories (we’ll never forget that boat trip…), and memories we’ll treasure for years. Croatia didn’t just meet expectations – it exceeded them, and we’re already dreaming about our next adventure....